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A Brief History of Banwell

Banwell

A Short Tour of the Village

By Roy Rice

Situated at the west end of the Mendips on the north side about 5 miles from the coast of the Bristol channel at Weston Super Mare, besides the main village it consists of the hamlets of Winthill, Yarborough, Whitley Head, Hill End, Knightcott, Wolvershill, West Wick, St Georges, Waywick, Rolstone and Towerhead.

The settlement may have started on the south side of the Mendip ridge at Winthill but finally settled on the north side where there is a fine spring that produces up to 7 million gallons a day in the winter season, this spring ran mills from at least Doomsday up until the 1920's when the spring was capped and the water used for the ever expanding Weston Super Mare, at this time the village also lost its pond that made an excellent front piece for the mainly 15th century parish church.

The doomsday book lists three mills in Banwell, we do not know if they were fed from the pond as it may not have been there but they were certainly fed by the waters of the spring, where these mills were we do not know but what we do know is that since the early 18th century there has been a mill near the spring head fed from the pond where the bowling green now is,. The buildings of the mill who's wheels stopped turning in 1921 are still there, one of the building that looks like a bungalow with a lawn in front just before the steps down to church street is where the water wheel was that drove the mill stones.

To the west side of the Grist Mill in the 18th & 19th century was a Paper Mill that was turned into a Brewery in the 1850's and lasted until 1906. The mills were owned by the Emery family and were run by the Castle family and later the Willet family ran the gristmill.

The Castle family who ran the brewery had various partners which change the name on the product, Thomas Castle, Thomas Castle & Son, Castle & Rogers, Castle, Son & Wood. The brewery owned public houses around the district where it supplied the beer. The old pond site now a bowling green and the old mill buildings down to the Brewers Arms public house reside in the ownership of the Waterworks Company.

Banwell was one of the manors of the Bishops of Bath & Wells who had a residence to the east side of the church which they vacated in the 18th century and has been used as a private residence since, it has been called the Court House and latterly Banwell Abbey the name that is used to this day, this monastic title seems to have arrived from ancient times when Alfred gave Asser "a monisterium at Banwell" how big or what they meant by a monisterium we do not know. Around 1874 the house was rebuilt to its present style by Dyer Sympson who built the Castle, the Abbey property was split into four during the 1950's.

As mentioned before the mainly 15th century church has a 100 foot high tower that contains10 bells from the 18th to 20th century and a clock dated 1884. The body of the church has a nave with a clerestory, north and south aisles and it is said, a rather short chancel considering the proportions of the rest of the church. The font dates from the 12th century carved stone pulpit from 15th century and a beautiful carved rood screen built and set up in 1552 and escaped the reformation, there are also some very early bench pews given to date of the 1480's. The church has undergone major restorations in 1812, 1862 and the mid 1960's.

It is unfortunate that five roads of the village, Church Street, East Street, Castle Hill, High Street and West Street, meet in the square where once the village cross stood, this cross was moved and rebuilt in the 1754 and removed altogether around 1798 as it was thought to"incommoded the traffic", traffic has been and still is the bane of Banwell life and although a bypass was pegged out in the 1930's it has never been built.

Church Street goes North past the old 1874 Chapel of the free Methodist and later the Baptist, past the church entrance and the sites of the old, Mill and Brewery, Wagon works, the Gas Works of 1865-1926 and the Poor Houses then follows Banwell river to the Moor which contained many large farms with fine houses that brought prosperity in to the village but alas many now just private houses.

East Street, once called Gay Street starts at the Bell  and goes past the Old Non Conformist Chapel of the 1790's, the Vicarage, the old 1887 Fire Station, Banwell Abbey, the old village Pound and on to Towerhead where Bishop Godwin built a large house in the 16th century, this house was rebuilt in the 19th century and called Towerhead House.

Just over the parish boundary at Towerhead was Sandford and Banwell Railway Station, now Sandford Stone, built on the new railway line from Yatton to Shepton Mallet in 1869 called the Cheddar Valley line or locally known as the Strawberry Line, this line closed in the Beaching cuts of the 1964.

Up until 1967 East Street was very narrow will just enough room for a bus so to help the traffic flow, or so it was thought, the complete line of terrace cottages and shops on the south side of the road were pulled down, sadly this did not help the traffic that much. The pulling down of the butchers shop opposite the Bell Hotel in the early 1970s lost the shape of Banwell's Square which is now just a junction at the end of the road.

Southwards from the square is Banwell Rhoddy now called Castle Hill that leads of course past the Castle built in 1847 as a private residence and then on to Winscombe the next village. If you bear right before the Castle and right again you will go past the Roman/ Medieval site at Winthill.

To the West of the Square is High Street which confuses many visitors that venture up it hoping to find the main street but find a narrow winding hill with cottages either side. Until the 20th century this road was called Harding's lane, for what reason is not known although a Harding's Barn is to be found in Harding's Lane on an 18th century estate map. On the first steep part of High Street you pass two old pubs now closed, The George and The White Hart. Near the top of the hill you pass the old school of 1867, then two paths to Banwell Hill, Rock path and Hill path. Follow through the "narrows" with cottages on either side you find on the right hand site the Jubilee Well of 1887 which is a 76 feet deep.

High Street then follows the north side of Banwell hill past mainly modern buildings inter-dispersed with restored old cottages, at the west end of High street is situated the Caves house once the residence of Bishop Law, under this house are the Bone and Stalactite caves, further to the west is Hillend where a "shadow factory" was built during the war for aeroplane building, the factory site is now Elborough Village. 

The fifth street off the Square is West Street, the main street, it starts at what was once The Ship Hotel a Coaching Inn, past the War Memorial where the village Lock-up stood in the 1830's and where nearby a German bomb fell in 1940, pass the Methodist Chapel built in 1862 and "Pruens Lane" on the right the entrance to Ten Acres the field behind the shops that was used for Banwell Horse Show and where the remains of Roman buildings were found in 1967. A short lane next the last of the shops leads to the Malt House that once belonged to the Brewery. Here the flats next to the Malt House and the flats next to the car park are replacement for houses also bombed in 1940, opposite the car park the New School built in 1926. Next to the car park is the Grange one time home of the Emery family which in years gone by had a Tan Yard behind it.

Wolvershill road turns right off West Street and goes to Worle passing Stonebridge and Westwick on the way, West Street carries on pass the Wolvershill turning to the Recreation field where it becomes Knightcott Road.

Banwell from the mid 19th century thrived with more than its share of shops and businesses, many gentry families resided here which gave trade and employment but with the rise of Weston Super Mare and the traffic problems Banwell has declined so that at the turn of the 20th to 21st century we are down to 8 shop from the 26 odd of the 1940/50's

Banwell had two fairs, January and July; the January has survived in a very very small way. This fair was for cattle and sheep; the whole of East Street where it was held was shuttered up from the Square to the Abbey gates. The fair had all the trappings with sideshow entertainers and traders selling all kind of wares. Also open on fair days was the fire station that adjoins the Abbey estate in East Street. We still open the Fire station on fair day but it is more a museum now as the county fire service was withdrawn from here in the 1980's.
The Fire station was the gift of Miss Fazakerley of Chorley in Lancashire in who came to the abbey in 1883 for her health, in 1887 she supplied an up to date fire engine for the fire station with equipment and uniforms for the crew. Miss Fazakerley also supplied instruments and uniforms for a village band.

There has been a Wesleyan church in Banwell since the 1790's the first just off the Square in East Street two doors from the vicarage which I believed caused some problems, it is said their windows were broken by the church people, this chapel was replace by one in West Street in 1862 The old chapel became for want of a word a village hall called the Literary Institute where most village functions were held, it later became a builder and undertakers workshop and is now a private residence. There is also an old chapel in church street started by the free Methodist in 1872 the chapel was eventually sold to the Baptist church in the 1940's, then became the church hall in the 1950's and is now a private business premises. 

There are now only three public houses in Banwell village and one at St Georges the Woolpack. Historically St Georges is part of Banwell Parish but I suspect soon to be part of Worle or Locking Castle.

There are only now three pubs in the main village the Brewers Arm next to the river below the Old Brewery, the Whistling Duck on the Knightcott Road on the way to Weston which is on the site of an earlier pub The Smiths Arms. The Bell in the Square is an ancient inn that had stables off an entrance in Church Street. In the 18th century the Bell belonged to the Tuckey family two of who were parish clerks and whose beautiful writing can be seen in the old churchwardens account books, which date from 1519 to the present day. The Tuckey's were also stone carvers and a masterpiece can be seen in the Bell front bar, a Royal coat of arms by Edward Tuckey dated 1764 . Near by opposite the Bell was another ancient large inn called the Ship which sadly went out of business in the 1990's, but thankfully very nicely restored to business office accommodation. (The were two pubs in High Street up until the 1960's called the George and White Hart).

There has been a school in the village since the end of the 18th century that included one associated with Hannah More. One of the schools in High Street was converted from a Temperance Hall in 1867 and was used until the 1950's in conjunction with the current school of 1926 in West Street.

Most of the early buildings in the main village are on the North sides of East Street and West Street, and both side of Church Street, there are many other ancient buildings mainly farm houses scattered around the outlying parish. There also seems to have been quite a few large Houses for the gentry built or rebuilt in the 19th century.

In September 1940 a stray stick of bombs fell on the village killing five people and destroying four early terrace cottages in lower West Street  and the Post Office and General store at the top end of West Street towards the Square. Sadly all these were rebuilt in the 1950's to the poor designs of that time.

In the 1950's a council estate was built to house local people and families that had been displaced by the war and were residing in squatter camps at Hillend and Summer lane, the name squatters was not used then as a derogatory name as it is today. The council estate was enlarged through the 1960's and infill around this estate continued with private bungalows and houses which attracted a lot of retired people from the Midlands, later development has carried on Westwards on both sides of the road towards Knightcott.

After sixty odd years of trying Banwell finally built a Village Hall near the Westfield estate on part of the Recreation field left to the village by Robert Day in the 1902. The rest of this field is still used for recreation and is the site for the village carnival in July. The field was in the past also used for the Harvest Home and the fun fairs that went with it.

At the back of West street is another field called Ten Acres that belonged to the Brewery, here from the 1880's to 1930's the Banwell Horse show was held although it did alternate with the Abbey ground the other side of the river below the Abbey sometimes.  Ten Acres luckily has not been developed, as it might have been for in the 1967 a pipe track dug near to the river by the water works revealed 4th or 5th century Roman Buildings with mosaic floors. A small excavation was made of the site but the extent of the building is not known, the site is now scheduled so will not be built on but sadly it may never be fully excavated.  To the west side of Ten Acres where the Scout Hut and Community Centre stand was the site of the Banwell Sewage works closed in the 1970's, the car park above this area off West street was created by pulling down one of the ancient cottages that partly survived the 1940's bombing.

To the east of the village is Banwell wood with a knoll that was an iron age fort where the ramparts can still be seen, to the west of this fort is a low earth and stone bank in a cruciform shape surrounded by a rectangular bank the whole likened to a rabbit warren, when it was put there or for what reason is not known although some have suggested it has an association with the thought that St Patrick was born in Banwell.

Nearby is a Victorian castle built in 1847 by a London Solicitor as his home, it is now a hotel and restaurant.  To the west of the castle on the south side of the hill is Winthill where roman and medieval occupation was found during excavations in the 1960's. One of the important finds at Winthill was a roman glass bowl engraved with hunting scenes and a verse "VIVAS CUM TVIS PIES" translated I am told "long life to you and yours drink and you will live", the bowl in now in the Asmolian Museum in Oxford.

Follow this south side of this hill westwards past Whitley Head and we come to the Bone and the Stalactite caves, the latter was discovered by miners in the 17th century but then lost.  In the 1830's the land on which the cave was thought to be came into the ownership of the Bishop of Bath & Wells, George Henry Law 1824-1845, at this time the lost cave (Stalactite) was found again and opened up, in trying to find a better entrance to the Stalactite cave another cave was found containing a great number of bones of amongst other things Bison, Wolf, Large Brown Bear, Reindeer, red fox and Arctic Fox, hence its name.

The buildings around the caves were gradually extended into a mansion with all the grounds set out as ornamental gardens with various follies and building such as a small museum to house some of the finds from the bone cave. On the hill behind the mansion the Bishop built a 50-foot high tower with a balcony at the top where you can get a fine uninterrupted view in every direction of the surrounding countryside. The whole estate gradually fell into disrepair in the mid 20th century but with the new owners of the house in the 1980's and help of the farmer of the estate lands the whole area is being brought back to life and restored, the Bone cave and tower are open now at selected time of the year, but the Stalactite cave is restricted to those with caving ability.

Sadly many people see Banwell as a village with a traffic jam but you will see from the above if you wander around on foot you will see Banwell in a different light.

The above information has come from my own and many other sources including articles by various authors in Search the journal of Banwell Society of Archaeology. I have endeavoured to give the correct information but if you know anything written to be incorrect please contact me. I hope to update these pages from time to time.

 

Banwell May 2005.

Author: 
 

 

Roy Rice, 01934 823298, E-mail r.w.rice@Bristol.ac.uk

 

 

Contact for Old Banwell Families
 

 

Netty Rice, 01934 822058. E-mail nettyrice@firefly.net

 

 


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